Molecule MDI 101
CAS# 893412-73-2
Granactive RD-101
A mixture containing 1% pure pinacolyl ester of trans-retinoic acid. Designed for
high stability, low irritation and effective activity and dermal delivery in skin care
applications
INCI Name:
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Stearoxymethicone/dimethicone copolymer (and) Dimethyl Isosorbide
(and) Dimethicone (and) Hydroxypinacolone-Retinoate
Appearance:
Viscous Bright Yellow Gel
Recommended use level:
10% - 30%
Patent Status:
US 4,885,311 and Patent Pending Applications
Safety:
Non-irritating, non-mutagenic, and non-sensitizing
Availability:
Currently Available in Most Global Regions
Applications:
Anti-aging and anti-acne* therapy products in serum, gel cream and lotion forms.
*must be co-formulated with an approved anti-acne active
as subject to regional codes and laws.
Formulation:
Oil Dispersible
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Mild Retinoic Ester Technology for Anti-Aging and Anti-Acne
Products
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BACKGROUND
The prescriptive drug active Tretinoin is the all-trans isomer of retinoic acid and
is a topical form of delivering vitamin-A. It helps the skin to renew itself more
quickly and therefore reduces pimple and blackhead formation, and may improve the
appearance and texture of skin.
Retin-A® (TM Ortho Dermatological)
is Tretinoin topically used to treat acne. The Renova® brand
(TM Ortho Dermatological) of Tretinoin topical is
used to reduce the appearance of fine wrinkles and mottled skin discoloration, fix age
spots and make rough facial skin feel smoother. All of these products are exclusively
in the acid form and can peel/irritate the skin and increase the skins sensitivity to
sun exposure.
In comparison, Granactive RD-101 is a formulated cosmetic raw material that
includes 1% of a pure ester form of Tretinoin that works similar to Retin-A, but
without the irritation of Tretinoin. It also does not require a prescription to
use. This delivery form significantly reduces the irritation potential, without
diminishing the cosmetic treatment potential. Granactive RD-101 in cosmetics
decreases the effects of sunlight induced aging and is a useful ingredient in anti-acne
preparations. Unlike Tretinoin, the improved mildness allows Granactive RD-101
to be co-formulated with anti-acne products like salicylic acid and it's salts, so long
as the retinoic ester is protected in the oil phase of an emulsion.
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Clinical Age-Spot Reduction
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A formula containing 0.1% Pinacolyl trans-Retinoate and 1% Magnesium Ascorbyl phosphate
(MAP) was graded for age spot reduction over one month of study on 5 subjects. This
formula essentially included a minimum level of MAP to qualify for products requiring
skin lightening claims. As shown on the right, this combination is very effective in
achieving a 50% improvement in the grade of discolored skin in just one month. MAP can
be difficult to formulate, so a 50% reduction in it's use level is always preferred by
formulators.
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Surface Roughness and Overall Skin Condition Improvements
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Skin surface roughness improvements occurred within one to two weeks of using this
product - about 50% improvement was noted. During the ending survey, 100% of the
participates responded that skin roughness, dryness, tone, radiance, softness,
firmness, tightness, elasticity and overall skin condition were significantly improved.
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Overall Skin Condition Improvements
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Significant Improvements were noted in skin surface scaling, a potential indicator of
irritation and dryness. The method of formulating Granactive RD-101 yields an effective
and winning formula without dryness or irritation. 80% of the panelist responded that
this formula significantly reduced fine lines and wrinkles, diminished the appearance
of age spots, skin discolorations and freckles and improved sun damaged skin.
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